Singapore’s first Men’s Fashion Week

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Singapore is pushing the envelope yet again in the fashion arena, by hosting the inaugural Singapore Men’s Fashion Week, which will also be the first of its kind in the region.

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Gareth Pugh SS 2011

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Gareth Pugh once again collaborates with director Ruth Hogben and music director Matthew Stone for his third foray into fashion film, this time to showcase his Spring Summer 2011 collection.

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3.1 Phillip Lim SS 2011

DB, Nehru, belted, shortened sleeves, layering. Cerebral and well-executed, methinks.

DB, Nehru, belted, shortened sleeves, layering. Cerebral and well-executed, methinks.

With this guy’s name all over the fashion world in the recent years, I was curious to check out what his collections had to offer this season. For his menswear collection, we see modern and muted designs in restrained colour palette of royal blue, baby blue, black, and medium brown. While its liberal use of paisley, sheer, embroidery and long flowing scarves may not win over hoardes of men, these elements are incorporated in a manner that is far from camp. I guess his items would work well as individual items as evidenced by its popularity among online shoppers, but there were also a few looks that I liked in particular. *pictures below

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Fashion Week Favourites: Kris Van Assche Spring 2011

Even though I wasn’t a big fan of Kris Van Assche’s work for Dior Homme for the same season, I quite liked the latest collection of his eponymous label. The collection consisted solely of black, white and grey monochromes save for the occasional jolts of black spray paint. As with previous collections, we see this progressive designer redefine the rules of menswear.

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Juun J Spring 2011

F**k. I need every single one of these pieces.”

So says the first commenter on the Fashionisto’s blog in response to the Juun J Spring 2011 collection. I couldn’t agree more.

Being more than a month behind schedule, I wonder if it was time to put to rest my blog postings on my favourite collections from Men’s Fashion Week. Then I bump into the Juun J collection once again, and the urge to share the genius of this Korean-born, Paris-based designer overrules my concerns.

I consider this collection my personal favourite for the season, as I harboured a strong liking for almost every look from its runway. This man’s understanding of the male body silhouette and what works on it is just spot on, as evidenced by the excellent results of his draping, cutting, detailing and choice of materials. Not to mention the high wearability of most of his items. His collection this year featured all models in kefiyyeh-like head covers, coupled with tops or outerwear conventionally-cut or voluminous, many of which possessed freely swinging straps or strings to highlight fluidity. These were worn with pants or shorts, mostly drop crotch or tapered with the narrow pant leg tucked into Juun’s own flip-flop/roman sandal hybrid.

As with my previous posts on the collections, I intend to share selected shots which I consider as my favourites from the runway. The problem with Juun J’s collection is, I can’t decide which photos to share, as I have favourited each photo that I have got hold of. Nevertheless, I will try to condense them to a select few photos.

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MFW SS 2011: Yohji Yamamoto

The fashion show portrays the collection as one that visibly harks back a bygone era with wigs, cravats, waistcoats, top hats, tailcoats. However, further inspection reveals as much looking forward as it looks back. Innovative lapels, oversized fits, kooky top-to-bottom prints on suits, floral slip-ons, block colours, movable fabrics – the incorporation of these modern detailing made seeing this collection that much more enjoyable. And what an inspiration it was to see how a master combines the new elements into traditional tailoring.

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MFW SS 2011 Favourites: Burberry Prorsum

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Ever fancied living in a world where trenchcoats and military jackets were the order of the day, and sandals were not ugly? I do, and by the looks of it Christopher Bailey most certainly does. Here we see a fantastic collection of outerwear that reportedly have been referenced to early designs by the iconic fashion house’s founder, Thomas Burberry, himself. Sharply tailored jackets that retain a militaristic cutting and detailing, as well as heavily studded leather outerwear reminiscent of ancient Chinese armory are paired with sheer tops, leather pants and jersey trousers.

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MFW SS 2011 Favourites: Dries van Noten

This collection tops the list in my favourites for the season so far. Even though I admittedly do not follow Men’s Fashion Week religiously, I usually make it a point to see what the Belgian designers have to offer. People like Dries, Raf Simons, and the Antwerp Six never fail to bring a much needed fresh take on menswear that contrasts with the classic romanticism of the Milanese and Parisian fashion houses.

The season’s collection sees ample-sized overcoats, double-breasted jackets, both with ample lapels. Experimentation with bleaching, blotches of paint in denim jeans, cotton shirts bags and jackets. Earth tones like terracotta and ochre.

Once again below I share my favourite shots from the runway collection:

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MFW Favourites: Moncler Gamme Bleu Spring 2011

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Bicycle motif on woven tie.


Usually when Men’s Fashion Week arrives, all I am waiting for are the action happening off the runway, i.e  snapshots of the attendees on blogs like the Sartorialist, Face Hunter, Jak & Jil and the like. This year however, I have been paying unusually more attention to the runway itself. The outcome was as expected, I still ended up liking the collections by designers that I already like, and conversely didn’t pay too much attention to designers whose clothes I have less affinity for. There are a few surprises along the way, though, as I discover new designers, add unexpected designers to my favourites and drop out some former favourites who don’t seem to leave an impression anymore.

One instance of a new discovery is Moncler Gamme Bleu. Although the name of this French sports label appears faintly in my memory, I didn’t know of Thom Browne’s involvement in a collaboration line until recently. This year’s collection (it’s their 3rd year) is bicycle-themed and was held in Milan’s Vigorelli Velodrome.

A sporty shade of grey featured heavily in this collection, accented with pink tops with a base of the all-American shades of red, white and blue. Clothes were Thom Browne tailoring translated into an outdoor setting, with double breasted jackets paired together with nylon jackets, arm bands and cycling gloves. Bicycle prints were liberally used on the capes that inflate in the wind (for those who love a little drama), cycling tights and woven ties (for the more subtle guys).

Here are my favourite shots:

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